Navigating the Faroe Islands: Ferries, Tunnels & Helicopters Between Islands

Before diving into transportation options, it's essential to understand the geography of this archipelago. The Faroe Islands consist of 18 major islands, of which 17 are inhabited. The islands form a rough triangle shape spanning about 113 km (70 miles) north-to-south and 75 km (47 miles) east-to-west.

The main island of Streymoy houses the capital Tórshavn and is your likely starting point as it's home to the main airport at Vágar. Most tourists concentrate their visits around the central islands (Streymoy, Eysturoy, Vágar, and Borðoy), which are conveniently connected by tunnels and bridges.

During our visit, I spent evenings poring over maps with my children, turning our journey planning into geography lessons. My eldest daughter Priya became our unofficial navigator, tracking our island-hopping progress on a large paper map we purchased at the airport.

The outer islands like Sandoy, Suðuroy, and the tiny eastern islands require ferries or helicopters to reach. While more challenging logistically, these less-visited islands offer the most authentic glimpse into traditional Faroese life and were the highlight of our trip.

One thing that surprised me: distances are deceptively short as the crow flies, but travel times can be significant due to winding roads, mountain passes, and ferry schedules. This is not a place where Google Maps estimates are particularly reliable!

The Faroes' tunnel system is nothing short of engineering marvel. During our visit, my analytical side was thoroughly impressed by how this nation of just 50,000 people has constructed such ambitious infrastructure.

The subsea tunnel network forms the backbone of Faroese transportation, connecting the main islands without requiring ferries. There are currently three subsea tunnels:

• Vágatunnilin: Connecting Vágar (airport island) to Streymoy (main island)
• Norðoyatunnilin: Connecting Eysturoy to Borðoy (Klaksvík)
• Eysturoyartunnilin: The newest addition (opened December 2020) connecting Streymoy directly to Eysturoy

The Eysturoyartunnilin deserves special mention as it features the world's first underwater roundabout, illuminated by spectacular light art. My children were absolutely mesmerized by this underwater traffic circle, and we actually drove through it multiple times just for the experience!

Beyond the subsea tunnels, numerous mountain tunnels cut through the islands' imposing peaks. Some of these are quite narrow with passing places rather than two full lanes—a nerve-wracking experience for those unused to such roads.

All tunnels in the Faroes are toll roads, with fees ranging from 25-200 DKK per passage. To avoid constant stopping, I highly recommend renting a car with an automatic payment device or purchasing a tunnel pass at the airport. We opted for a portable GPS navigation device which proved invaluable as mobile reception can be spotty inside tunnels, and the local rental GPS wasn't very reliable.

One important note: the single-lane tunnels operate on a give-way system where cars must pull into designated passing places. Learn the protocol before entering these tunnels, as headlights in the distance indicate an approaching vehicle that may have right of way.

Despite the impressive tunnel system, ferries remain vital for reaching many of the Faroe Islands. The national ferry company, SSL, operates regular services to the outer islands not connected by tunnels.

Our family's most memorable day involved taking the ferry to Kalsoy, known as 'the flute' for its thin shape and tunnel 'holes.' This island has no tunnels connecting it to other islands, making the ferry the only access point. The journey itself became one of my children's favorite memories—spotting seabirds, feeling the spray of the North Atlantic, and watching the dramatic coastlines slip by.

The main ferry routes include:

• Tórshavn to Suðuroy: The longest route (2 hours) connecting the capital to the southernmost island
• Gamlarætt (Streymoy) to Sandoy: A short 30-minute crossing
• Klaksvík to Kalsoy: A 20-minute journey to one of the most dramatic landscapes
• Tórshavn to Nólsoy: Just 20 minutes from the capital to a car-free island

Ferry tickets are reasonably priced, especially if traveling on foot. Vehicle transport costs considerably more, which factored into our decision to rent separate cars on certain islands rather than bringing one vehicle everywhere.

Before our trip, I created a detailed spreadsheet comparing the costs of taking our rental car on ferries versus renting locally on each island. For Suðuroy and Sandoy, bringing our car made sense. For smaller islands like Kalsoy, we opted to explore on foot, which worked perfectly given the limited road network.

Unlike the well-oiled transportation systems of mainland Europe, Faroese ferries operate on island time and weather conditions. During our summer visit, services were reliable, but winter travelers should expect frequent cancellations. I packed our trusty waterproof dry bag which kept our gear protected during the occasionally splashy crossings.

One budget tip that saved us significantly: if you're planning multiple ferry journeys, ask about multi-journey passes at the first terminal you visit.

Perhaps the most extraordinary transportation option in the Faroes is also one of its best-kept secrets: the heavily subsidized helicopter service operated by Atlantic Airways. Unlike helicopter rides elsewhere that cost hundreds or thousands of dollars, these flights are priced similarly to bus fares as they're considered public transportation for locals.

When I first told Rahul about taking our children on a helicopter, he assumed I'd blown our budget completely. His expression when I revealed the cost—around 215-300 DKK (roughly $32-45 USD) per person—was priceless.

The helicopter service connects Tórshavn with the smaller islands of Koltur, Stóra Dímun, Skúvoy, Svínoy, and Fugloy, some of which have populations of fewer than 20 people. The views are absolutely spectacular—you'll soar over dramatic cliffs, emerald valleys, and isolated villages clinging to mountainsides.

However, there's an important ethical consideration: as these flights are subsidized for locals' transportation needs, tourists should only book one-way helicopter journeys and return by ferry. This unwritten rule ensures locals always have access to necessary transportation.

Booking requires advance planning. The schedule is released only 2-3 months in advance, and seats sell out quickly, especially in summer. I set calendar reminders and booked the moment reservations opened. Our flight from Tórshavn to Svínoy provided views that would have cost thousands in places like New Zealand or Hawaii.

For photographers, this is an absolute dream opportunity. I brought my mirrorless camera with a polarizing filter to cut glare through the helicopter windows. The resulting images became the centerpiece of our family travel album.

One unexpected benefit: the helicopter service often reaches islands when ferries are canceled due to rough seas, making it both the most scenic and most reliable option in poor weather.

Crafting a logical itinerary for the Faroe Islands requires balancing ambition with practicality. After much spreadsheet work (occupational hazard of a budget analyst!), our family settled on a hub-and-spoke approach that minimized accommodation changes while maximizing island coverage.

We based ourselves in three strategic locations:

1. Tórshavn (4 nights): The capital city on Streymoy served as our main hub, allowing day trips to Vágar, Eysturoy, and Nólsoy.

2. Klaksvík (2 nights): The second-largest town gave us easy access to the northern islands of Kalsoy, Kunoy, and Borðoy.

3. Tvøroyri on Suðuroy (1 night): The southernmost island required an overnight stay due to limited ferry schedules.

This approach meant our children had stable bases rather than constant packing and unpacking. It also allowed us to book better accommodations since longer stays often qualify for discounts.

When planning your own itinerary, I recommend starting with a transportation map and working backward. First, identify which islands require overnight stays due to limited connections, then fill in day trips from your main bases.

For families like ours, I suggest investing in a travel planner where you can map out transportation connections alongside accommodation details. This saved us multiple times when ferry schedules changed or weather altered our plans.

One strategy that worked exceptionally well was alternating 'big travel days' with 'local exploration days.' After taking multiple ferries or a long drive through tunnels, we'd spend the next day exploring our immediate surroundings on foot. This rhythm prevented transportation fatigue, especially important with children.

Finally, build in buffer days. The Faroese have a saying that if you don't like the weather, wait five minutes. While somewhat true, bad weather can disrupt transportation for more than just minutes. Our flexible itinerary allowed us to swap days around when a ferry cancellation threatened to derail our plans.

As a budget analyst by profession, I approached our Faroe Islands transportation costs with perhaps more spreadsheets than the average traveler. However, this advance planning saved us nearly 30% on our transportation budget—money we happily redirected to experiencing local cuisine instead.

Here's a breakdown of what to expect cost-wise:

Car Rental: This will likely be your largest transportation expense. Expect to pay 700-1200 DKK ($100-175 USD) per day for a standard vehicle. The roads are excellent but narrow, so you don't need a 4WD unless visiting in winter. We booked through a local company rather than international agencies and saved significantly.

Tunnel Tolls: Budget approximately 300-500 DKK for a week of tunnel crossings if you're exploring multiple islands. The subsea tunnels are the most expensive (around 100-200 DKK per crossing), while the older mountain tunnels are cheaper or free.

Ferry Costs: Passenger fares are reasonable at 20-90 DKK per journey depending on distance. However, taking a vehicle on board significantly increases the cost (200-400 DKK). We calculated when it made financial sense to take our rental car versus going as foot passengers.

Helicopter Flights: The incredible helicopter service costs between 215-300 DKK per person for one-way journeys. While not cheap, this represents extraordinary value compared to scenic helicopter flights elsewhere in the world.

Public Buses: The red buses connect major towns and villages for just 20-30 DKK per journey. Coverage is limited but useful for certain routes, especially on the main islands.

One significant saving strategy we employed was purchasing the Múlakort travel card, which gave us unlimited travel on buses and certain ferries. For a family of five, this paid for itself within just three days.

I tracked our total transportation spending using the travel expense tracker which helped us make real-time adjustments to stay within our budget.

A final tip: many guesthouses and hotels offer free transportation to nearby hiking trails or attractions. We saved approximately 2000 DKK by taking advantage of these complimentary shuttles rather than driving ourselves to every location.