Ultimate Diving Adventure: Exploring WWII Wrecks in Gizo, Solomon Islands

Growing up with my Mexican grandmother's stories of family resilience and my father's passion for history books, I've always been drawn to places where the past whispers through the present. But nothing prepared me for the profound experience of hovering beside a Japanese transport ship, its metal skeleton now a living reef, or swimming through the cockpit of a downed American Hellcat fighter plane.

Gizo, the second largest town in the Solomon Islands, sits at the epicenter of what was once called 'The Slot'—a narrow channel where some of the Pacific War's most intense naval battles unfolded. Unlike the more crowded wreck diving destinations I've visited in the past, Gizo offers something extraordinary: accessibility to advanced divers combined with an almost spiritual solitude underwater.

The Toa Maru, a 450-foot Japanese transport vessel, remains one of the most intact WWII shipwrecks in the Pacific. Swimming along its massive hull, now draped in soft corals and sponges, I found myself transported back to 1943. Fish darted in and out of cargo holds still containing sake bottles, ammunition, and even the occasional motorcycle part. The juxtaposition of war artifacts against the vibrant marine ecosystem that has reclaimed them creates a diving experience that's both historically profound and visually spectacular.

What makes Gizo truly special is the diversity of its underwater offerings. Beyond the headline-grabbing Toa Maru, you'll find Japanese Zeros, American Corsairs, Hellcats, patrol boats, and numerous smaller vessels scattered across the seabed. Each tells a different story of the conflict that once raged above the very waters we now peacefully explore with our dive computers, tracking our depth and bottom time as we witness history firsthand.

When I decided to pivot from my usual family-friendly travel style to this advanced diving adventure, I knew I needed to approach planning differently. This wasn't going to be a spontaneous trip like the time my son and I decided to follow the coastal farmers markets of Oregon. Gizo demands preparation, especially for its legendary wreck diving.

I chose to base myself at Fatboys Resort, a stunning overwater bungalow property named after a character from Charles Dickens' The Pickwick Papers (a literary connection that delighted the bookworm in me). From my private deck, I could literally see wrecks in the shallow waters below, a constant reminder of the historical significance of these islands. The resort works with dedicated dive operators who specialize in the technical aspects of wreck diving, essential for safely exploring sites that often exceed 30 meters in depth.

For this expedition, I invested in my own dive gear rather than relying on rental equipment. Having my personally fitted buoyancy compensator made a significant difference in my comfort level during the 3-4 dives we completed each day. When exploring wrecks with potentially sharp edges and tight swim-throughs, equipment you trust becomes paramount.

Dive operators in Gizo typically offer packages that include accommodation, meals, and a set number of dives. I recommend Dive Gizo or Sanbis Resort's dive center, both of which employ guides with encyclopedic knowledge of the wrecks' histories and the marine life that now inhabits them. These guides can tailor experiences to your certification level and interests—whether you're fascinated by the historical artifacts still visible inside cargo holds or more interested in the unique ecosystem that develops on artificial reefs.

One luxury that proved worthwhile was hiring a private dive guide for three days of my trip. Having one-on-one attention allowed me to spend extra time photographing the hauntingly beautiful propeller of a downed fighter plane and exploring parts of the Toa Maru that larger groups typically bypass. My guide, a local Solomon Islander whose grandfather had witnessed the actual battles, provided historical context that no guidebook could match.

My grandmother used to tell me that understanding history requires all your senses. In Gizo's waters, I finally understood what she meant. Each wreck engages you completely—the cool touch of metal that's been underwater for nearly eight decades, the play of filtered sunlight through twisted propellers, the silent testimony of artifacts that outlived their owners.

The Toa Maru

The crown jewel of Gizo's underwater offerings deserves its reputation. This massive transport ship rests on its starboard side in 7-37 meters of water. What makes the Toa Maru exceptional is its accessibility—divers of different experience levels can appreciate different sections. I spent three separate dives exploring its various holds, each containing different cargo: sake bottles in one, artillery shells in another, even a hold containing remains of staff cars and motorcycles.

The ship's bridge and pilot house remain hauntingly intact, and swimming through them creates an intimate connection with the sailors who once navigated these waters under very different circumstances. My underwater torch revealed details inside the darker recesses that would otherwise remain hidden—personal effects, control panels, and the ghostly outlines of the ship's infrastructure.

Fighter Aircraft

Perhaps even more moving than the ships are the fighter planes scattered across Gizo's underwater landscape. The Japanese Zero at Plum Pudding Island (now Kennedy Island, where JFK was stranded during WWII) sits upright in just 8 meters of water, making it accessible even to novice divers. The American Hellcat deeper in Gizo Lagoon requires more advanced skills to reach but rewards visitors with an almost perfectly preserved cockpit.

What struck me most about these aircraft wrecks was their scale—somehow, underwater, these machines of war seem both smaller and more vulnerable than I imagined. Fish dart through cockpits where young pilots once sat, and delicate corals grow from gun mounts that once delivered destruction.

The I-1 Japanese Submarine

For technical divers seeking a truly unique experience, the I-1 submarine wreck near Blackett Strait represents one of the only diveable Japanese submarine wrecks from WWII. Resting at depths between 20-45 meters, this site requires advanced certification and experience, but offers an unparalleled glimpse into submarine warfare technology of the era. The vessel broke in two during its sinking, creating distinct dive sites that showcase different aspects of this formidable war machine.

What makes these wrecks collectively special is their context within Gizo's vibrant marine ecosystem. Unlike artificial wrecks sunk specifically for diving, these vessels and aircraft became part of the ocean through historical circumstance. The result is an integration with the natural environment that feels organic and somehow respectful—nature slowly reclaiming the artifacts of human conflict.

While the historical wrecks initially drew me to Gizo, it was the unexpected vibrancy of the natural reefs that compelled me to extend my stay. The Solomon Islands sit within the Coral Triangle, the global epicenter of marine biodiversity, and Gizo showcases this underwater wealth magnificently. Between wreck dives, I discovered reef systems that rival any I've seen in my decades of diving.

Grand Central Station, aptly named for its constant flow of marine traffic, became my favorite morning dive site. Here, the reef forms a natural channel where currents funnel nutrients, attracting everything from massive schools of barracuda to reef sharks patrolling the edges. The soft corals here pulse with life in colors so vivid they seem almost artificial—electric blues, vibrant purples, and fluorescent oranges creating an underwater tapestry unlike anything I've experienced in more trafficked dive destinations.

Hot Spot, another renowned reef site, features underwater thermal vents where you can actually see water shimmering as it releases heat from the earth's core. Tiny bubbles rise from the sandy bottom, creating a surreal, otherworldly diving environment. The geothermal activity supports unique marine life adapted to these specific conditions—a reminder of how diverse and specialized ocean ecosystems can be.

What struck me most about Gizo's reefs was their pristine condition. Unlike many popular diving destinations where coral bleaching and damage from overtourism are increasingly evident, these reefs remain remarkably healthy. The limited number of divers visiting the region has helped preserve these ecosystems, though local guides expressed concern about warming ocean temperatures affecting even these remote reefs.

For underwater photography enthusiasts like myself, Gizo offers exceptional opportunities. I upgraded my underwater camera setup specifically for this trip, investing in a underwater housing that allowed me to capture both wide-angle wreck scenes and macro details of the incredible critters inhabiting them. The clarity of the water, often exceeding 30 meters visibility, means even amateur photographers can capture professional-quality images.

Between dives, I found myself reflecting on the strange juxtaposition of these vibrant, life-filled reefs existing alongside the somber war graves. There's something profoundly moving about witnessing how nature reclaims and transforms the artifacts of humanity's darkest moments. Schools of yellow snappers swirl around anti-aircraft guns now serving as anchor points for sea fans. Clownfish make their homes in anemones growing from pilots' seats. Life persists and transforms, a powerful reminder that resonated with me throughout my journey.

Between diving days, I discovered that Gizo's WWII history extends far beyond its underwater museums. The conflict shaped the Solomon Islands in profound ways that continue to influence local culture, politics, and daily life. As someone who typically seeks out cultural connections through food markets and local literature, I found myself on a different kind of cultural journey here—one centered on oral histories and living memory.

Many locals I met had grandparents who directly experienced the war, serving as scouts for Allied forces or witnessing pivotal battles that unfolded around their homes. At Sanbis Resort, I spent an unforgettable evening with an elder whose father had guided John F. Kennedy after the sinking of PT-109. His stories, passed down through generations, offered perspectives rarely found in Western historical accounts.

I arranged a visit to a nearby village where community members have preserved artifacts recovered from the jungle over decades—everything from dog tags to mess kits to personal effects that tell the human story behind the military campaign. What struck me was the complexity of local attitudes toward this history. The war brought tremendous suffering but also created connections and relationships that transformed island life.

Kennedy Island (formerly Plum Pudding Island), where JFK and his crew swam after their patrol boat was rammed by a Japanese destroyer, has become a popular day trip for visitors. Standing on its small beach, reading the commemorative plaque while looking out over waters that hide so many wrecks, creates a powerful connection to the events that unfolded here.

To better understand the historical context before my dives, I'd brought along a comprehensive guide that detailed the Solomon Islands campaign. Having this historical framework enhanced my underwater experiences tremendously, allowing me to visualize the battles that led to each sinking and appreciate the strategic importance of the very waters I was exploring.

What I hadn't expected was how this immersion in war history would affect me personally. My grandfather had served in the Pacific during WWII, though he rarely spoke about his experiences. Diving among the wrecks of Gizo somehow brought me closer to understanding that chapter of his life. It was a connection across time that I hadn't anticipated but that added emotional depth to every dive.

Transitioning from my usual family travel style to this advanced diving expedition required significant preparation. For those inspired to follow in my flipper steps, here's what you need to know to make your Gizo wreck diving adventure both safe and extraordinary.

Certifications and Experience

First and foremost, this is not a destination for diving beginners. Most of Gizo's signature wrecks sit at depths requiring at least Advanced Open Water certification, and many of the most rewarding penetration dives should only be attempted by those with wreck specialties or technical certifications. I spent three months before my trip refreshing my deep diving skills and completing a Wreck Diver specialty course—preparation that proved invaluable when navigating through the Toa Maru's narrow corridors.

If you're an experienced diver but lack specific wreck training, consider arriving a few days early to complete a specialty course with one of the local dive operations. Both Dive Gizo and Sanbis Resort offer excellent training opportunities in the very waters where you'll be diving.

Logistics and Accessibility

Reaching Gizo requires patience and planning. International flights arrive in Honiara, the capital, followed by a domestic flight to Gizo's uniquely charming airport—a tiny island where the runway occupies nearly the entire landmass. Boats transfer passengers from the airstrip to their accommodations.

I recommend building buffer days into your schedule, as domestic flights can be affected by weather and mechanical delays. These buffer days aren't wasted—they provide opportunities to explore Honiara's National Museum and WWII sites like Bloody Ridge before continuing to Gizo.

Health and Safety

The remoteness that keeps Gizo pristine also means limited medical facilities. The nearest recompression chamber is in Honiara, making dive insurance not just recommended but essential. I use dive insurance which includes emergency evacuation coverage—a must for diving in remote locations.

Malaria prevention is necessary in the Solomon Islands. Consult your travel doctor well before departure about appropriate prophylaxis, and pack plenty of repellent for evenings on shore. I found lightweight, long-sleeved sun protection clothing invaluable for both sun and mosquito protection between dives.

Packing Considerations

Beyond standard diving equipment, specific items enhanced my Gizo experience significantly:

• A 3-5mm wetsuit was perfect for multiple daily dives in 82-84°F water
• A powerful dive light for illuminating wreck interiors
• A surface marker buoy and reel for safety in areas with boat traffic
• A waterproof notebook for recording wreck details and marine life sightings
• Spare mask straps and fin straps (replacements aren't readily available)

While luxury resorts offer laundry services, packing quick-dry clothing helps manage the humid climate. Remember that baggage allowances on domestic flights are strictly enforced—arrange excess baggage in advance if traveling with full dive gear.