Wild Montana: Outdoor Adventures in Havre's Rugged Backcountry

The Bear Paw Mountains might lack the fame of their western cousins, but what they offer is something increasingly rare: solitude. These modest peaks rising from the prairie create a microclimate that supports surprising biodiversity and challenging trails without the crowds that plague more popular Montana destinations.

My favorite route is the Saddle Butte Trail, a 7-mile loop that climbs through pine forests before opening to sweeping prairie views. The trail's moderate elevation gain (about 1,200 feet) is enough to get your heart pumping without requiring technical skills. What makes this hike special is the transition zones—where prairie meets forest, where limestone outcroppings create miniature ecosystems.

I spent three days exploring these mountains, each morning setting out with my trekking poles (essential for the occasionally loose terrain) and my topographic map of the area. Cell service is virtually non-existent here, so having reliable navigation tools is non-negotiable.

My father's work as a botanist taught me to look beyond the obvious, which served me well in Havre where some of the most extraordinary experiences lie beneath the surface—literally. The limestone karst systems that run beneath the prairie have created a network of caves that few outside the local caving community know about.

Arranging a guided expedition with Havre Caving Society was straightforward but required advance planning. My guide, Dan, a retired geologist with 30 years of local caving experience, led me through the Cottonwood Cave system, where calcite formations dating back thousands of years create otherworldly chambers.

The caves maintain a constant 52°F year-round, making them a refreshing escape from summer heat. The expedition requires moderate physical fitness—expect to crawl, squeeze, and climb. I was grateful for my knee pads which protected me during the longer crawl sections, and my headlamp which provided reliable illumination with hands-free operation—essential when you're navigating tight passages.

Just 30 miles east of Havre lies Bowdoin National Wildlife Refuge, a 15,000-acre wetland complex that serves as a critical stopover for migratory birds along the Central Flyway. This is where my husband would have been in his element (though this trip I was flying solo), as the photographic opportunities here are extraordinary.

I spent two full days exploring the refuge, waking before dawn to witness the morning chorus of thousands of birds. The auto tour route provides good access, but I recommend the more challenging Lakeside Trail that circles the main water body. Here, I encountered pronghorn antelope, mule deer, and even caught a glimpse of a swift fox—a species that has made a remarkable recovery thanks to conservation efforts I once helped document in my policy work.

My spotting scope proved invaluable for wildlife observation, allowing me to maintain distance while still appreciating the details of birds and mammals. For those serious about wildlife photography, a portable hide will significantly increase your chances of close encounters without disturbing the animals.

Havre's human history is as textured as its landscapes. The region sits at the intersection of multiple indigenous territories, primarily the Aaniiih (Gros Ventre) and Nakoda (Assiniboine) peoples, whose knowledge of the local ecology shaped this landscape for millennia before European contact.

I spent a day at the Bear Paw Battlefield, part of the Nez Perce National Historical Park, where Chief Joseph spoke his famous words, "From where the sun now stands, I will fight no more forever." Standing on this windswept prairie, the weight of history is palpable—a reminder that conservation must always consider cultural heritage.

In town, the Havre Beneath the Streets tour offers a fascinating glimpse into the early 1900s, when a fire forced businesses underground. While not wilderness-focused, understanding the human context of a place enriches any outdoor experience.

I carried my notes and observations in a waterproof notebook, which withstood both the occasional summer shower and my accidental drop into a stream during one particularly ambitious creek crossing.

Havre isn't Yellowstone or Glacier—and that's its charm. But this remoteness requires preparation. The town itself has limited accommodation options; I stayed at the Best Western Plus Havre Inn & Suites, which provided a comfortable base for daily excursions. For those seeking deeper immersion, the Clear Creek Campground in the Bear Paw Mountains offers basic facilities with extraordinary stargazing.

Food options in town are limited but surprisingly good. The Triple Dog Brewing Company serves excellent craft beer and better-than-expected pub fare—their bison burger fueled several of my longer hikes. For provisions, Shop'n Save provides adequate groceries for trail meals.

Perhaps most important is water management. Montana's dry climate demands constant hydration. I relied heavily on my water filter when exploring backcountry areas, as many streams and springs are available but require treatment. For longer drives and hikes, my insulated water bottle kept water cool even during 90°F afternoons.

Cell service is spotty at best once you leave town. I rented a satellite communicator for emergency communications—an investment that provided peace of mind during solo backcountry excursions.