Diving the SS President Coolidge: Luganville's Underwater World War II Museum

Before strapping on my BCD and tanks, I spent an evening at Luganville's small maritime museum, absorbing the Coolidge's fascinating history. Originally a luxury cruise liner built in the 1930s, this massive vessel was converted to a troopship during WWII. Her final voyage came in October 1942 when, approaching Espiritu Santo harbor, she struck two American mines. The captain, realizing the ship was doomed, made the heroic decision to run her aground on the nearby reef, allowing nearly all 5,000 troops aboard to wade safely to shore.

What makes the Coolidge so special is how intact she remains. Unlike many shipwrecks that have been salvaged or deteriorated, this massive underwater time capsule still holds jeeps, medical supplies, personal belongings, and even the famous porcelain 'The Lady' statue that divers now touch for good luck. During my pre-dive briefing at Allan Power Dive Tours, the guides spoke of the ship with reverence – not just as a dive site, but as a war grave and historical monument.

Let's be clear – diving the Coolidge is not for beginners. With depths ranging from 20 to 70 meters and potential currents, this site demands Advanced Open Water certification at minimum, with many sections requiring technical diving qualifications.

I spent a week in Luganville, allowing time for multiple dives to different sections of the wreck. Most dive operators offer packages that include shore accommodations, equipment rental, and guided dives. I stayed at the modest but comfortable Deco Stop Lodge, where dive talk dominates every dinner conversation on their open-air deck.

Preparing my gear the night before each dive became ritual. My dive computer was essential for managing bottom time at varying depths. For capturing the surreal scenes inside the wreck, I brought my Insta360 Flow 2 Pro, which proved perfect for stabilizing my phone while filming the narrow corridors and cavernous holds without disturbing silt.

Of all my dives on the Coolidge, the most memorable was exploring the promenade deck and encountering 'The Lady' – a porcelain relief of a woman riding a unicorn that once adorned the first-class smoking room. Our dive guide led us through a series of narrow passages, our bubbles dancing along the ceiling as we navigated the tilted corridors.

The wreck sits at a 45-degree angle, which creates a disorienting but fascinating experience as you swim through doorways that now function as hatches. Penetrating the ship's interior requires careful finning technique and excellent buoyancy control – disturbed silt can reduce visibility to zero in seconds.

I recorded the entire experience using my phone in an underwater phone housing mounted on my Insta360 Flow 2 Pro. The gimbal's stabilization was crucial in the tight spaces, allowing me to capture smooth footage even while navigating the ship's tilted corridors. The results were stunning time-lapse sequences showing how light filters through portholes, illuminating the ship's interior in ethereal blue rays.

While the Coolidge is undoubtedly Luganville's main underwater attraction, don't miss diving at Million Dollar Point – a surreal underwater junkyard where the US military dumped millions of dollars worth of equipment rather than sell it cheaply after WWII. Bulldozers, jeeps, and forklifts create an artificial reef that's now teeming with marine life.

Between dives, I explored Luganville's modest town center and ventured into the surrounding jungle to visit blue holes – natural freshwater springs perfect for cooling off. The local market offered fresh tropical fruits that became my post-dive recovery snack, along with coconuts cut open right before my eyes.

For longer surface intervals, I'd relax at my accommodation reviewing footage and making notes. My waterproof notebook proved invaluable for sketching dive plans and recording observations underwater, while my portable hard drive kept all my video footage safely backed up.

Traveling solo to Luganville for diving presents unique considerations. The diving community here is tight-knit, making it easy to connect with other divers at lodges and dive shops. I quickly found myself part of an impromptu group of international divers sharing stories over Tusker beers each evening.

While accommodations range from basic to comfortable, don't expect luxury resorts. Most dive-focused stays offer simple, clean rooms with fans rather than air conditioning. I found my travel sleep sheet useful for the occasional place with questionable bedding.

Internet connectivity is limited and expensive in Vanuatu, so prepare for a digital detox. I used my evenings to journal and plan the next day's dives rather than scrolling social media. That said, having a local SIM card for emergencies is wise – you can purchase one at the small airport upon arrival.

Solo female travelers should note that while Vanuatu is generally safe, Luganville is still a developing area with limited nightlife. Most social activities center around dive lodges rather than public venues.