Car-Free in Dover: Navigating New Hampshire's Historic Seaport by Foot and Rail

The Amtrak Downeaster line connects Boston to Dover in just under two hours, making it an ideal weekend escape from the city. I boarded at Boston's North Station on a Friday afternoon, settling into my window seat with my Kindle Paperwhite loaded with New Hampshire history books. The train journey itself is part of the experience – rolling through the quintessential New England landscape of coastal marshes, small towns, and eventually the Great Bay estuary.

The Downeaster offers comfortable seating, free WiFi (though spotty in some sections), and a café car serving local treats. I particularly enjoyed the Maine-brewed coffee and blueberry muffins while watching the scenery unfold. The train arrives directly in downtown Dover, placing you perfectly for a car-free weekend.

For those coming from further afield, fly into Boston Logan International Airport, then take the Silver Line to South Station, followed by a quick subway ride to North Station for the Amtrak connection. The entire journey flows seamlessly with minimal waiting time between transfers.

Dover's compact downtown core is perfectly sized for exploration on foot. After checking into my room at the Garrison Hotel (a 15-minute walk from the station), I set out with my travel daypack to explore the historic district. The city's brick-lined sidewalks lead past beautifully preserved 19th-century buildings, many housing local businesses worth popping into.

My first stop was Flight Coffee Co. on Central Avenue, where I fueled up with a pour-over and chatted with the barista about local walking routes. She directed me to the Dover Public Library—a stunning 1904 Carnegie building where I spent an hour admiring the architecture and browsing their local history collection.

Don't miss the Woodman Institute Museum, a quirky and fascinating collection of natural history, local artifacts, and oddities housed in a 1818 Federal-style mansion. The museum is just a 10-minute walk from downtown, and its eclectic collection includes everything from a 10-foot polar bear to Civil War memorabilia. The volunteer docents share fascinating stories that bring Dover's maritime and industrial past to life.

As a cycling enthusiast, I couldn't visit Dover without exploring its riverside paths. While I didn't bring my own bike on this trip, I easily rented a cruiser from Dover Cyclery (advance reservation recommended during summer months). The shop provided me with a bike water bottle and a detailed map of local trails.

The Community Trail follows the Cochecho River for nearly 5 miles, offering a peaceful route through natural areas and past historic mill buildings. The path is well-maintained and mostly flat, making it accessible for casual cyclists. I particularly enjoyed the section near the Children's Museum of New Hampshire, where the trail connects to Henry Law Park—a perfect spot for a mid-ride break.

For those seeking more challenge, the trail connects to wider regional routes. I spent a leisurely Saturday morning cycling to Hilton Park, where the Piscataqua River meets the Great Bay. The views across the water toward Maine provided a perfect meditation spot that reminded me of quieter moments on the Camino de Santiago, minus the crowds of pilgrims. I secured my bike with my lightweight bike lock and spent an hour journaling by the water.

As someone who often balances travel with work responsibilities, I was pleasantly surprised by Dover's options for digital nomads. While smaller than major tech hubs, this riverside city offers several comfortable spaces to set up with a laptop.

My favorite discovery was Poplin Way Coworking, a bright, airy space housed in a renovated mill building. For $25, I purchased a day pass that gave me access to high-speed WiFi, unlimited coffee, and a choice of seating arrangements from standing desks to cozy armchairs. The space was quiet enough for video calls, which I managed using my noise cancelling earbuds – essential for maintaining professionalism while traveling.

For a more casual work environment, Flight Coffee Co. welcomes laptop warriors with plenty of outlets and a relaxed atmosphere. Their tables are spacious enough for a computer and notebook, and the baristas don't mind if you linger for a few hours over their excellent coffee. The local library also offers free WiFi and quiet study spaces if you prefer absolute silence for deep focus work.

Dover's compact size makes it primarily walkable, but there are several options for extending your range beyond the downtown core. I found myself relying on a combination of walking, cycling, and occasional public transit during my weekend stay.

COAST Bus provides regular service throughout Dover and connects to neighboring Portsmouth and Rochester. The Route 2 bus was particularly useful for reaching shopping areas north of downtown. At just $1.50 per ride, it's an affordable option when you need to rest your feet. I downloaded the COAST Transit app to track bus locations in real-time, which proved invaluable when planning around the less frequent weekend schedules.

For evening outings or rainy weather, I used the compact travel umbrella I always pack and relied on ride-sharing services. Both Uber and Lyft operate in Dover, though wait times can be longer than in major cities, especially during off-peak hours. For spontaneous short trips, I found the foldable rain poncho more convenient than waiting for a ride – it packs down to the size of a smartphone and saved me during an unexpected afternoon shower.