Navigating Hong Kong: A Complete Transportation Guide from MTR to Ferries

Before diving into specific transit options, let me introduce your new best friend: the Octopus Card. Similar to London's Oyster or Germany's DB Card but viel besser (much better), this contactless stored-value card is the key that unlocks Hong Kong's entire transportation network.

On my first day in Hong Kong, I purchased my Octopus at the airport MTR station. The standard adult card costs HK$150 (about US$19), which includes HK$100 in stored value and a HK$50 refundable deposit. What makes this card truly exceptional is its versatility—you can use it for virtually all forms of public transportation, plus convenience stores, fast food restaurants, and even some vending machines.

As a safety inspector by profession, I appreciate systems that reduce friction points, and the Octopus excels here. No fumbling for exact change or struggling with ticket machines in a rush. Just tap and go. The card automatically calculates the correct fare and applies discounts when available.

For budget travelers, I highly recommend getting the Tourist Octopus Card before your trip or upon arrival. It saved me countless times when I was running to catch the last ferry or hopping between multiple transportation modes in a single day.

When your balance runs low, simply top up at any MTR station, convenience store, or one of the many Octopus service points throughout the city. The system will even display your remaining balance each time you tap, keeping you informed—a small but significant detail that speaks to the thoughtfulness of Hong Kong's transit design.

If the Octopus Card is your key to the city, the Mass Transit Railway (MTR) is the kingdom it unlocks. As someone who grew up with Germany's efficient U-Bahn and S-Bahn systems, I have high standards for public transportation—and Hong Kong's MTR exceeds them all.

Covering Hong Kong Island, Kowloon, the New Territories, and even extending to the border with mainland China, the MTR network consists of 11 lines distinguished by different colors. Stations are immaculately clean (sauber wie in Deutschland!), trains run with Swiss-watch punctuality, and the signage is brilliantly intuitive with English translations everywhere.

What impressed me most as a safety professional was the thoughtful design. Platform screen doors prevent accidents and suicides, while clear announcements in Cantonese, Mandarin, and English ensure tourists never miss their stops. The stations themselves are often massive underground complexes connected to shopping malls, making it possible to navigate large portions of the city without ever stepping outside—a blessing during Hong Kong's sweltering summer months or sudden downpours.

For budget travelers, the MTR is remarkably affordable. Most journeys cost between HK$4-20 (US$0.50-2.50), depending on distance. My week of extensive MTR travel averaged just US$5 per day—a fraction of what I'd pay for taxis.

During rush hours (8-9:30 AM and 5-7 PM), trains become extremely crowded. If your schedule allows, travel outside these times for a more comfortable experience. When I visited the famous Wong Tai Sin Temple, I deliberately went at 10 AM to avoid both the morning commuters and the midday tourist rush.

While the MTR offers the fastest route between Hong Kong Island and Kowloon via underwater tunnels, the iconic Star Ferry provides something much more valuable: perspective. As someone who grew up appreciating river transport during family vacations on houseboats, I have a special affinity for water crossings.

The Star Ferry has been connecting the two sides of Victoria Harbour since 1888, and at just HK$2.70 (about US$0.35) for a lower deck weekday ride, it's not just transportation—it's the best sightseeing value in Hong Kong. The 10-minute journey offers spectacular views of Hong Kong's famous skyline, particularly magical during the evening Symphony of Lights.

During my visit, I made it a habit to take the Star Ferry at least once daily, often planning my itinerary to cross the harbour around sunset. The upper deck costs slightly more but provides better photo opportunities. I found the perfect spot at the railing to capture the entire skyline with my travel camera, which handled the challenging light conditions beautifully.

Beyond the Star Ferry, Hong Kong offers numerous other ferry services worth exploring. The ferry to Lamma Island (about 30 minutes) takes you to a car-free island with excellent hiking trails and seafood restaurants—a perfect day trip from the urban intensity. Similarly, the Mui Wo ferry connects to Lantau Island, home to the famous Tian Tan Buddha.

As a safety tip, always hold onto railings while on deck, especially when the ferry is docking or departing. Hong Kong's harbour can experience unexpected waves from passing ships. Also, ferry schedules change between weekdays and weekends, so always check the latest timetables at the terminals or online.

While the MTR forms the backbone of Hong Kong's transportation system, the city's extensive bus network reaches places the subway doesn't. Coming from Frankfurt's orderly bus system, I was initially intimidated by Hong Kong's seemingly chaotic bus routes—but I quickly discovered they offer unparalleled access to the city's hidden corners.

Hong Kong operates three main types of road-based public transportation: double-decker buses, minibuses (both red and green varieties), and on Hong Kong Island, the charming historical trams known locally as "ding dings."

The double-decker buses run on hundreds of routes throughout the territory. They're comfortable, air-conditioned, and accept Octopus cards. For the budget traveler, they're often cheaper than the MTR for longer journeys. I particularly enjoyed sitting on the upper deck front row—a prime sightseeing position that offers a unique perspective of the city. When heading to Stanley Market from Central, bus route 6 provided spectacular coastal views that no underground journey could match.

Minibuses come in two varieties: red minibuses operate without fixed routes or schedules (you simply hail them like taxis), while green minibuses follow set routes and stops. With just 16 seats, these nimble vehicles can navigate narrower streets than their larger counterparts. The green minibus #1 took me up to The Peak when the tram line was too crowded with tourists—a local hack I learned from my hostel receptionist.

Perhaps most charming are Hong Kong Island's trams, which have been operating since 1904. At just HK$2.60 (about US$0.33) per ride regardless of distance, they're the most economical way to travel east-west across the island. They're slow but provide an atmospheric journey through some of Hong Kong's most interesting neighborhoods.

For longer journeys or when carrying luggage, I relied on my travel daypack which provided enough space for my essentials while remaining compact enough for crowded public transportation.

As a dedicated budget traveler, I typically avoid taxis. However, there are moments when they become the most practical option—especially in Hong Kong where taxis are relatively affordable compared to Western cities. The city operates three types of taxis, each serving different regions and color-coded for easy identification: red (urban Hong Kong), green (New Territories), and blue (Lantau Island).

Red taxis are the most common and can travel anywhere in Hong Kong except Tung Chung Road and the south side of Lantau Island. The flag fall is HK$24 (about US$3) for the first 2km, with incremental charges for additional distance. Most short urban journeys cost between HK$50-100 (US$6-13).

During my stay, I found taxis particularly useful in two scenarios: late at night when public transportation options were limited, and when visiting remote hiking trailheads. After a sunset hike at Dragon's Back, I was grateful to find a red taxi at the Shek O Road endpoint as darkness fell—sometimes safety and convenience justify the extra expense.

A few important safety notes about Hong Kong taxis: drivers rarely speak English, so having your destination written in Chinese characters is essential. I kept a small notebook with common destinations written in Cantonese by my hostel staff. Additionally, unlike many countries, Hong Kong taxis rarely accept credit cards or Octopus cards—cash is king. Always ensure the meter is running when you start your journey.

Ride-sharing services like Uber do operate in Hong Kong but exist in a legal gray area. I found the local HKTaxi app more reliable for calling taxis, and having a local SIM card with data was essential for using such services. The app allows you to input your destination in English while sending the Chinese characters to the driver—solving the language barrier problem elegantly.

For airport transfers, the Airport Express train is usually faster and cheaper than taxis due to potential traffic congestion, but if you're traveling with multiple people or heavy luggage, a taxi might be more economical and convenient.

Beyond the conventional transportation options, Hong Kong offers several unique mobility experiences that function as both practical transport and tourist attractions in their own right.

The Central-Mid-Levels Escalator system is the world's longest outdoor covered escalator system, stretching over 800 meters and rising 135 meters through the hilly terrain of Hong Kong Island. As a safety inspector, I was fascinated by this engineering marvel that carries over 85,000 people daily. It runs downhill from 6 AM to 10 AM to serve morning commuters, then reverses direction for the remainder of the day. The escalator passes through several vibrant neighborhoods, with restaurants and shops lining the route. I spent an entire evening hopping on and off at different levels, exploring the evolving character of each street—from the traditional medicine shops at the bottom to the trendy bars of SoHo in the middle sections.

The Ngong Ping 360 Cable Car offers breathtaking views as it transports visitors from Tung Chung to the Ngong Ping Village and the famous Tian Tan Buddha on Lantau Island. While primarily a tourist attraction, it's also genuine transportation. I recommend splurging on the crystal cabin with its glass bottom for unobstructed views of the lush mountains and South China Sea below. To avoid the longest queues, I arrived just before the opening time of 10 AM with my pre-purchased skip-the-line tickets which saved me nearly an hour of waiting.

The Peak Tram, Hong Kong's oldest form of public transport dating back to 1888, carries visitors up to Victoria Peak for panoramic city views. While the MTR and buses also serve The Peak, the funicular railway offers a unique experience as it climbs at a seemingly impossible angle through mid-levels neighborhoods. The newly renovated system reopened in 2022 with increased capacity, but queues can still be substantial—I recommend visiting on weekday mornings or evenings after 7 PM for shorter wait times.

For water transportation enthusiasts like myself, the kaitos (small motorized ferry boats) serving outlying islands and remote coastal villages provide glimpses into Hong Kong's maritime heritage. The kaito to Sai Wan Swimming Shed from Aberdeen costs just HK$15 (about US$2) and takes you to one of Hong Kong's most photogenic and least touristy spots.